Frequently Asked Questions

[Note:  We have created a new FAQ system with search capability similar to the Help system for Windows.  Click here for the new FAQ page:

http://www.sbig.com/matts/SBIGFAQs/SBIGFAQ.htm


 

Table of Contents

A.  General

  1. Are your cameras compatible with all brands of telescopes?
  2. Is there an easier way to focus?
  3. Why do I get a white blob when I try to image planets?
  4. Can I autoguide with any SBIG camera?
  5. Why won't my LX50 calibrate for autoguiding?
  6. Which port on my LX200 do I use to connect an autoguider?
  7. What size battery do I need to operate your cameras in the field?
  8. The window over my CCD looks frosted when it cools down.  What do I do?
  9. Why don't you use USB or Firewire instead of parallel connections?
  10. Can SBIG cameras be used with Macintosh computers? 
  11. I need a longer power cable and/or head cable for my ST-7/8/9/10/1001.   How do I make extensions?
  12. Why can't I extend the length of the head cable on my ST-5C, ST-237 or STV? 

B.  ST-4

  1. Do you have any "how to" instructions for the beginner other than the manual? 
  2. How do I remotely control the ST-4?
  3. Do you have any Windows software for the ST-4?

C.  ST-5C / ST-237

  1. Will the ST-5C or ST-237 be a good match for my new Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope?
  2. What is the difference between the ST-237 and the ST-237A cameras?

D.  ST-6

  1. What is the difference between the the ST-6, ST-6A and ST-6B?
  2. I have an old ST-6, can I upgrade it to an ST-6B?

E.  ST-7/8/9/10

  1. What parameters do I use to calibrate the telescope drive?
  2. Are your cameras upgradeable?
  3. Should I chose antiblooming or non-antiblooming?
  4. What class of CCD do you use in your ST-7 and ST-8 cameras?
  5. How do I control my ST-7/8 with Unix/Linux?

F.  AO-7

  1. Why won't my AO-7 communicate after installing the new Windows 95 software update?
  2. How do I connect the AO-7 to my ST-7/8?

G.  CFW8

   
1.  How do I connect the CFW8 to my ST-7/8?

 



A.  General

1.  Are your cameras compatible with all brands of telescopes?

There are three kinds of compatibility that must be considered:  Optical, mechanical and electrical.

Optical:  It is important to take into account the focal length of your OTA and the pixel size of the detector used in a particular camera  for best performance.   However, the user should not be overly concerned with the theory of matching pixel size to optical configurations to the point that he or she considers only one optical configuration to be acceptable for one camera.  For example, many amateurs use 35mm camera lens to take wide field images with CCD cameras even though the formula for the correct pixel size would seem to indicate that the pixels are not small enough.  For more information on pixel size and focal length, please review the article by Alan Holmes entitled "Optimizing a CCD Imaging System" from the link available at our Application Notes page.

Mechanical:  SBIG cameras can be used on virtually any telescope commercially available to the amateur.  All SBIG cameras come with a 1.25" nose piece that will simply fit into any telescope's 1.25" eyepiece draw tube.  In addition, all SBIG cameras except the ST-4 have removable nosepieces and t-threads for attachment to any t-thread adapter.

Electrical:  SBIG autoguiders and the self guiding ST-7 and ST-8 have all been used or tested with the Meade, Celestron, Losmandy, Astro Physics, Takahashi and many other brands of telescopes and drive correctors.  Many recent model telescopes have modular plugs which will accept autoguider inputs.  For example, we make cables that plug directly into the LX200, Losmandy, Celestron, Astro Physics and many other drives.  Some mounts, like Takahashi, require a custom cable.  In some cases we can provide schematics for you to make your own interface cable.   If you telescope is an older model that does not have an autoguider input plug, it can probably be easily modified.  We have posted schematics at our Application Notes page for modifying LX-3, LX-5 and LX-6 hand controllers to accept a relay cable from our autoguiders.  Please note that SBIG is not responsible for any damage to your hand controller if you make these modifications.   Also, please note that your Meade Limited Lifetime Warranty will be voided if anyone other than Meade makes modifications to your hand controller.  If you are uncomfortable modifying your own hand controller, please contact Norbert Tackman, 9521 Santa Maria St., Ventura, California 93004, Tel: (805) 647 2538, Email: 74552.1712@compuserve.com   Norbert is an amateur astronomer (not associated with SBIG) who has modified many hand controllers for use with our cameras.  Norbert also makes custom length serial and parallel cables for remote computer control of SBIG cameras.        

Back to Top


A.  General

2.  Is there an easier way to focus?

Several of us at SBIG have tried different methods for achieving quicker focus.   Unfortunately, we have found that the best way still takes some time, especially the first time you try it.  There are a number of different methods for getting approximate focus such as using a aperture mask or creating diffraction spikes.  A mask consists of a piece or cardboard with two (or three) holes cut in it that fits over the aperture of your telescope.  When a bright star is out of focus you will see two (or three) separated images, and as you get close to focus the images will appear to merge.  Diffraction spikes are created by hanging two dowels or other thin strips of some material in front of the aperture of your telescope.  When out of focus you will see two diffraction spikes and as you get close to focus the spikes will merge.  We have tried both of these techniques and while they are good for getting close, they aren't very sensitive to fine focus.  For this last bit of fine focusing we recommend using the peak value readout from CCDOPS described in the manual.

Once you have achieved good focus you will want to mark an eyepiece which is parfocal.   Without changing the position of the focus knob, remove the camera and insert an eyepiece.  If you are lucky, one of your existing eyepieces will be in focus as you slide it in and out of the draw tube.  As you slide the eyepiece, note where it appears to be in focus and mark the barrel.  Next time you set up you can use this eyepiece to return you to near correct focus for your camera.  You will probably still have to use the peak value method to refine this focus every time you start an image session.  Some users re-focus before every image, particularly with Schmidt-Cassegrain telescopes because the primary mirror can move slightly when you shift the position of the OTA.  If you do not have an eyepiece that will come to focus at the same position as the camera and you will need to get an eyepiece barrel extension or a custom parfocal eyepiece for your camera.  Software Bisque also makes a special eyepiece called an Ifocus Ocular which is custom designed to focus at the same position as your particular camera.  

Back to Top


A. General

3.  Why do I get a white blob when I try to image planets?

Compared to galaxies and nebula, planets are very bright.  The most common problem encountered when imaging planets or the moon is too much light!  Fortunately, planets have small angular appearance and also need to be enlarged by using a barlow or eyepiece projection.  This process also increases the focal ratio and spreads out the light from the object which makes imaging a bit easier.  It may be necessary to add a neutral density filter to further reduce the brightness to an acceptable level.  If you are just getting started and don't want to bother with the additional hassle of eyepiece projection, try making an aperture mask.  A piece of cardboard with a one or two inch hole placed in front of the telescope will cut the light levels to acceptable levels.  This also reduces resolution, but it is an easy thing to do just to get the hang of imaging planets for the first time.

Back to Top


A.  General

4.  Can I autoguide with any SBIG camera?

Yes.  The ST-4 and the STV both operate as a stand alone autoguiders (no computer required).  They will also display images when connected to a computer.  The ST-4 can also be remotely controlled by a computer for autoguiding with CCDTRACK software and the STV can be controlled remotely with STVREMOTE software.  All of our other cameras will also autoguide a telescope for conventional film astrophotography in addition to digital imaging when used with a laptop or other computer.  The patented dual sensor ST-7E, ST-8E, ST-9E and ST-10E cameras have the unique ability to image and autoguide simultaneously.
  
Back to Top


A.  General

5.  Why won't my LX50 calibrate for autoguiding?

Some recent model LX50 telescopes have a fast dec motor that will cause autoguiders to fail during calibration.  We have been informed that Meade is aware of the problem and is taking steps to correct this and/or to offer kits that will solve the problem.  There is also a third party fix for this problem offered by an amateur, Jordan Blessing.  Jordan sells a simple add-on kit which we have been told works very well.  He can be reached at http://home.att.net/~jblessin or by e-mail to jblessin@worldnet.att.net.   SBIG has no connection with Jordan, and we offer his information only as a courtesy to LX50 owners who would like to use an autoguider with their telescopes.

Back to Top


A.  General

6.  Which port on my LX200 do I use to connect an autoguider?

There are several similar looking ports on the base of the LX200 for insertion of modular (telephone type) plugs.  The Telescope Interface Cable (TIC) from an autoguider or CCD camera which controls the LX200's RA and DEC motors for fine guiding should be plugged into the "CCD" port on the LX200.  The "RS232" port on the telescope is used to connect to the serial port of a computer running software like The Sky which controls the pointing and slewing of the telescope.

Back to Top


A.  General

7.  What size battery do I need to operate your cameras in the field?

We recommend using a deep cycle marine type battery for field operation.   Each of our camera's requirements are stated in the specifications in the product catalog.  The ST-4 draws about 1 amp at 12 volts, and the ST-6 draws 4 amps.   Some telescope drives will draw 0.5 to 1.0 amp.  Laptop computers will also require power.  So, for example, the ST-4 in stand alone mode, plus a telescope drive might require about 2 amps.  With this setup a 50 amp hour battery would last at most 25 hours.  The battery ratings are not precise measures however, and you should not count on more than about 80% of the rated time.  So a 50 amp hour battery might last about 20 hours at two amps. 

Back to Top


A.  General

8.  The window over my CCD looks frosted when it cools down.  What do I do?

Depending on the ambient temperature, it is not uncommon for CCD cameras to regularly cool below zero degrees centigrade by special thermoelectric coolers built into the camera head.  Most CCD cameras have a desiccant in the CCD chamber which absorbs moisture and prevent frosting inside the chamber.  After a period of time, usually about one year, the desiccant in the CCD chamber needs to be "recharged" by baking it for a while to dry it out (The ST-6 requires replacement of a small desiccant package which we supply free of charge).  There are sections in the manuals for each camera model which discuss the method for recharging the desiccant.  If you need help finding the right page, check the index for the key word "desiccant."

Back to Top


A.  General

9.  Why don't you use USB or Firewire instead of parallel connections to the computer?

One of the most frequently asked questions we get is why don't we have Firewire or USB connections instead of parallel connections between our ST-7/8 cameras and the computer to speed up the download process.  Here are a few of the reasons: 

1.  First and foremost, USB and Firewire weren't around when the cameras were designed.   The method of communication between the camera and the computer is one of the first considerations our engineers take into account when designing a CCD camera.  At the time the ST-7/8 was designed, parallel communication was the best (most universal) option.   In order to implement Firewire or USB the cameras would have to be redesigned.   So why don't we redesign them now to replace parallel with USB or Firewire?   See below.

2.  Many of our customers use older computers in their backyard observatories or older laptops to control the camera in the field.  If we used a USB communication protocol, everyone would be forced to go out and buy a newer computer or card that had USB interface.  Parallel is much more universal.  But the main limitation with USB is the length of the cable.  Cable lengths cannot be longer than about 15 feet for USB connections.  Many of our customers want to run longer cables between the camera and the computer.  Runs of 150 feet are possible using standard parallel cable.  This makes remote operation possible with little additional expense or equipment.  [Update - See notes below]

3.  Firewire is even less universal than USB.  The large percentage of computers bought more than a couple of years ago do not have Firewire and many do not have it now.   In a recent customer survey it was revealed that more than half of our customers use laptop computers to control their cameras.  Laptops with a Firewire interface are still very rare except for the latest models.  Using Firewire would force most users to purchase a new computer.  The same can be said for Ethernet, but Ethernet cards for both desktop and laptop computers are relatively inexpensive and Ethernet cables may be very long.  We feel that Ethernet is a better choice for the future.   

In summary, redesigning a camera is a time consuming task.  Another way to make the downloads faster is to incorporate a plug in card for desktop computers.  But this will leave laptop computer users out in the cold.  If the redesign makes the camera less universally compatible with the vast majority of computers and laptops used by our customers we hesitate to undertake such a project.  We would rather use our development time coming up with new innovative products like the video STV.  But don't give up on the idea of faster download times.  We do continue to work on the issue and future CCD cameras will incorporate what we believe is the best compromise between universal compatibility and speed.

Update 2001:  Recent developments in USB extenders and the gradual disappearance of parallel ports on computers have caused us to change our position regarding USB as a viable interface for our cameras.  We have developed a new USB interface for the ST-7/8/9/10/1001 cameras which should be completed late this year (2001).  Preliminary tests using USB extenders show great promise for remote operation up to 100 meters.

Back to Top


A.  General

10.  Can SBIG cameras be used with Macintosh computers?   

Yes, with some limitations.  Historically SBIG has been the only astronomical CCD camera manufacturer to support the Mac.  We have a version of our standard operating software, CCDOPS, for the Mac but it does not include AO-7 support and it does not support USB.  In the past just about any Mac with a standard SCSI port could be used.  SBIG makes a SCSI/Parallel adapter for our cameras.  However, recent models of Macintosh computers do not have SCSI ports installed.  In this case the user should install a SCSI port or use one of the third-party accessories such as the Adaptec USBXchange USB-to-SCSI adapters along with SBIG's SCSI/Parallel adapter box to connect the camera.   

Back to Top


A.  General

11.  I need a longer power cable and/or head cable for my ST-7/8/9/10/1001.  How do I make extensions?

Depending on the model and cooling options you have there are several cables that must attach to the ST-7/8/9/10/1001 head:  The parallel cable to the computer, the power cable from the main power supply, the power cable for the optional secondary cooler and the telescope tracking cable.

Parallel cable: The cameras are supplied with a 15 foot parallel cable.  For short extensions, a second 15 foot cable from SBIG or a computer supply store should work OK.  Make sure the extension is of good quality shielded cable.   For longer extensions, or if adding a second cable causes problems, then a good quality custom shielded cable must be made up to the length you require.  We have heard of users making up to 100' and longer cables that work well.  The minimum specifications for such a custom cable are found in the Application Note section of our web site.

Power cable from the main power supply:  SBIG obtains its AC power supplies off-the-shelf with the cables included.  The multi-output supplies we get have rather short cables.  For general use we have never encountered a problem with the cable length.  When necessary, simply strap the transformer up the mount near to the head.  But for larger telescopes a longer power cable is more convenient.   To make an extension power cable 5 pin DIN male and female plugs are available ar Radio Shack and similar supply stores.  Simply make a straight through pin to pin extension from the female connector to the male connector, including the shield.  Use cable with 18 guage conductor for extensions up to 10 feet and 16 guage conductor for extensions longer than 10 feet (up to 20 feet).  Using smaller guage conductors such as commonly found in keyboard extension cables will result in a voltage loss that may adversely affect camera operations.  

Power cable for the optional secondary cooling booster:  This is a simple two conductor mini-jack and plug.  The mating plug is 5.5mm outside and 2.1mm inside.  Make a straight through connection using 18 guage wire for extensions up to 10 feet and 16 guage wire for extensions longer than 10 feet up to 20 feet.

Telescope Interface Cable:  This is the cable that connects the camera head to the telescope.  It controls the telescope when the camera is guiding an exposure.  The cable is a regular 6 conductor modular phone cable which should be long enough for any telescope.  But be careful - these modular phone cables may be found with the plugs oriented differently.  If you need to replace this cable or wish to use a longer one, be sure that the modular jacks at each end are oriented so that the clips point the same way (e.g., both up or both down) when the cable is laid out flat.  In this configuration, if you hold the two ends up so that the plugs are side by side and oriented with the clips pointing the same way, the left to right order of the colored wires will be exactly reversed from one plug to the other.  If you have any questions about how to make a custom TIC cable, please refer to the appendix of the camera operation manual for the autoguider pinouts.  

If you are uncomfortable making your own extension cables, please contact Norbert Tackman, 9521 Santa Maria St., Ventura, California 93004, Tel: (805) 647 2538, Email: 74552.1712@compuserve.com   Norbert is an amateur astronomer (not associated with SBIG) who makes custom length cables for SBIG cameras.        

Back to Top


A.  General

1.  Why can't I extend the length of the head cable on my ST-5C, ST-237 or STV?

These head cables carry weak analog signals between the head and the CPU box as well as power from the box to the head.  Extending this head cable will degrade performance of the camera.  This does not apply to the length of cable that can be extended between the CPU box and the computer, however.

Back to Top


B.  ST-4

1.  Do you have any "how to" instructions for the beginner other than the manual?

Yes.  The ST-4 has been in used by the best astrophotographers in the world for the past decade with great success.  We are fortunate to have the experience of these accomplished amateurs and professionals available to us.        

        (A)  Wil Milan, an accomplished astrophotographer, has written an article for beginners that is quite instructive.  With Wil's permission we have reproduced the article here in its entirety.  Click here to read Wil Milan's article.

        (B)  Another fine article was written by James Janusz on setting up a using the ST-4.  With James' permission a copy of the article is posted at our web site.  Click here to read James Janusz' article.  

        (C)  Del Johnson has also written an article on using the ST-4 with an equatorial platform.  See:
http://www201.pair.com/resource/astro.html/regular/products/eq_platforms/del.autoguiding.html

2.  How do I remotely control the ST-4?

There are now several programs for the ST-4 that allow the user to remotely image or autoguide.  CCD and CCDTRACK are free DOS programs that will let the user control the image and autoguide functions of the ST-4 via computer.  For Windows 95/98 users CCDSoft by Software Bisque will control both imaging and autoguiding functions of the ST-4.  For imaging only using Windows 95/98 there is also ImCap, a freeware program by Howard C. Anderson.  CCD, CCDTRACK and ImCap are available for free download from our web site.  Click here to go to the Software page.   For CCDSoft, please contact SBIG and ask for our demo CDROM.  CCDSOFT is available only as a demo program (limited to 60 days) but the unlimited version may be ordered from Software Bisque at $100 off the list price.       

3.  Do you have any Windows software for the ST-4?

See the answer to #2, above.

Back to Top

 


C.  ST-5C / ST-237

1.  Will the ST-5C or ST-237 be a good match for my new Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope?

Yes!  Both the ST-5C and ST-237/A will work very well with Schmidt-Cassegrain telescopes.  The CCD in the ST-237A camera is about twice as large as the CCD in the ST-5C so it will give a field of view about twice as large.  With either camera, however, we strongly recommend using a focal reducer on your F/10 SCT to bring the focal ratio down to F/6.3 or better.  Using a focal reducer accomplishes two things:  It increases the field of view and it reduces the exposure times.   SBIG also offers a custom focal reducer that screws into the nosepiece of these cameras that will yield F/5.95 or F/3.75 depending on the extension tube selected.

Either the ST-5C or ST-2237/A may also be used as autoguiders for film photography or for guiding another CCD camera.  The cameras come with a cable that connects directly to an LX200 CCD port or similar autoguider input plug on other telescopes.

2.  What is the difference between the ST-237 and the ST-237A cameras?

The model ST-237 camera was upgraded to the model ST-237A by increasing the A/D resolution from 12 bits to 16 bits and increasing the image size to the full pixel array of the TI-237 (from 640 x 480 to 657 x 495).

For some sample images taken with these cameras click below:

Click here to see some ST-5C sample images

Click here to see some ST-237 sample images

Back to Top


D.  ST-6

1.  What is the difference between the the ST-6, ST-6A and ST-6B?

The original model ST-6 camera's mechanical package was modified to shorten the camera head and move the head cable connector from the back of the camera to the side.  This was done to allow the maximum about of room for the camera to swing through the fork arms of some Schmidt-Cassegrain telescopes.  The mechanical changes were designated as the ST-6A.  For the ST-6B, the cooling design was modified to improve the cooling capability of the camera.

2.  I have an old ST-6, can I upgrade it to an ST-6B?

Due to an unavailability of critical parts, we are no longer producing the ST-6B camera or upgrades from older models to the ST-6B.  However, we do have two large pixel new camera models:  The ST-9E and the ST-1001E.  The ST-9E CCD array is 512 x 512 at 20 microns.  The ST-1001E CCD array is 1024 x 1024 at 24 microns.

Click here to see information on the ST-9E (512 x 512 pixels at 20 microns)

Click here to see information on the ST-1001E (1024 x 1024 at 24 microns)

Back to Top


E.  ST-7/8

1.  What parameters do I use to calibrate my telescope drive?

Every telescope drive is different and it is impossible to give a standard set of parameters for calibrating the drive for self-guiding the first time.  There are several ways of calculating reasonable estimates for the first calibration run, and they are best described by experienced users who have shared their techniques with others on the SBIG User's list.  The messages below describe different techniques to help the beginner calibrate a telescope drive for self-guiding:

-------------------------

From: Gene Horr <genehorr@swbell.net>
Subject: Re: (SBIGUSER) CCDOPS/Calibrate

> When I do a Calibrate, 99 times out of 100, it will fail... saying it didn't detect any motion.

I have found three main difficulties with calibration:

    (1) Poor movement time.
    (2) Poor exposure time.
    (3) Poor choice in field.

Movement Time:  To get a good calibration the star needs to move across enough pixels to get a good pixel/time ratio. If the movement time during calibration is too short you won't get a good reading. My personal method is to use the focus mode with the guiding chip. I center a bright star with a sub-second exposure time. I hold down a direction key and time how long it takes the star to move 1/2 of the distance from the center to the edge. Try this in all four directions and use the shortest reading. Use this value for your movement time.

Exposure Time:  If this is too short the stars get mixed up in the background noise, too long then blooming can throw off the calibration. When preparing the focus mode for   testing the movement time you can get the correct exposure time.

Field Choice:  You want a region with one star that is substantially brighter than the surrounding stars with no other bright stars in the area. This can be difficult with a short FL instrument. A problem with SBIG's calibration routine is that it often "picks" the wrong star during calibration. [Nag On] This is why I wish SBIG would add the ability to manually choose the calibration star after each movement. It would make things much easier, especially with refractors. [Nag Off].

These are the major problems and one or more of them is the most likely source of your problem. I am assuming that you have eliminated some of the basics: camera aligned with the mount's axis, wiring problems, & dew.

Gene Horr

-------------------------

From: Stanleymm@aol.com
Subject: Re: (SBIGUSER) CCDOPS/Calibrate

<< ...ST-7 ...."Calibrate" command and the "Self Guide"...When I do a
Calibrate, 99 times out of 100, it will fail....>>

This is a common complaint. Maybe SBIG should have a FAQ on the new web site.  Here are some procedures to debug the problem:

1) the camera must be mounted orthagonally (i.e. N must be up, down, left or right - not at an angle).

2) check the +- x,y movements via FOCUS (manual update) - use the keypad movement keys (WASZ) to check & see the movements. Note any excessive movement or backlash. If movement is too fast or slow, then change the speed on your mount. If you don't see a movement, then the most likely culprit (after your mount) is the "phone" cord & its connectors (note that you cannot use a real "phone cord", they do not contain enough conductors).

3) center a lone bright star in iether CCD (imaging or guiding). It is not advisable to do blind calibrations.

4) do the Self-guide Calibrate procedure using the CCD that has the centered star. watch the reported positions. Sometimes backlash will prevent one of the movements from happening (in which case change the mount TVC and/or speed). Also be sure that the calibrate xy move times are not too big or small. Occasionally another bight star will appear in the field & confuse the algorithm (you can tell by the calibration position & brightness display).

5) unless you have severely messed with the default parameters (aggressiveness, etc.) that should not be a problem - they are for fine-tuning.

Stan

-------------------------------

Back to Top


E.  ST-7/8

2.  Are your cameras upgradeable?

Yes, several models are upgradeable:  Older standard model ST-7 and ST-8 cameras may be upgraded to the new enhanced model using the "E" version of Kodak detectors.  This is true for both ABG and NABG cameras.  Also, an ST-7 or ST-7E can be upgraded to an ST-9E or ST-8E.  And any ST-7, ST-7E, ST-8 or ST-9E can be upgraded to an ST-8E.  The cost for upgrading can be found on our Price List.   You may also upgrade the class of detector in any ST-7, ST-8 or ST-9 camera at any time, although it is much less expensive to select the higher class of detector when ordering the camera.  Finally, any ST-7 or ST-8 camera can be outfitted with the enhanced two stage cooling package.  

Back to Top


E.  ST-7/8

3.  Should I chose antiblooming or non-antiblooming?

The ST-4, ST-5C and ST-6B cameras all have variable antiblooming protection because this is the only way Texas Instruments makes the detectors used in these particular cameras.  The ST-9E and ST-10E are not available with antiblooming.   Kodak, however, offers two types of detectors in the KAF-0401E and KAF-1602E series used in the ST-7E and ST-8E cameras.  We, therefore, offer both version to our customers.  The decision is a very personal one, but we receive many more orders for antiblooming versions of the ST-7/8 cameras than the non-antiblooming version.  There are three main differences in the antiblooming vs. non-antiblooming versions:  (1)  The antiblooming version will not show the rather ugly spikes or tails on bright stars in long exposures.  (2)  While the non-antiblooming detector will show spikes, the non-antiblooming detector is roughly twice as sensitive in the visible wavelengths.  (3)   The non-antiblooming detector has a more linear response and is a better choice for photometry where the aesthetics of the image are not of primary concern.  In general, if you're not engaged in scientific study and are not sure which one is right for you we recommend the antiblooming version.  Most amateurs are interested in photo like images and the antiblooming detectors will yield more aesthetic results.  But you should satisfy yourself that you understand these differences and make an informed choice.   If you need help making the decision we are always available to discuss the options with you.   

Back to Top


E.  ST-7/8/9/10

4.  What class of CCD do you use in your ST-7E, ST-8E, ST-9E and ST-10E cameras?

Kodak classifies their imaging detectors according to the number and type of "defects" found on the CCD.  The word "defects" has a rather negative sound to it, but in fact most CCD have some defects in the form of warm or cool pixels.  It does not mean that the CCDs are "defective" in any way.  Defects are pixels that usually still function but they respond to light slightly differently than their neighboring pixels and therefore look lighter or darker than the rest of the pixels that surround them.  These "warm" or "cool" pixels are easily removed from an image during processing.  On large arrays such as those used in the ST-8E and ST-10E a few warm or cool pixels are often lost to the eye among the millions of other pixels in the image.  Large detectors with no defects are usually very expensive and are not needed for most applications.  SBIG has always tried to offer the best value for the money when it comes to the class of detectors we choose.  We have never used a Class 3 detector even though it would cost somewhat less.  Where a Class 1 detector is priced reasonably, we use it.  If the detector is relatively free of column defects, this is generally good enough for the vast majority of applications.  Even the effect of a column defect is easily removed from an image using CCDOPS software.  However, Kodak has now eliminated column defects from Class 2 or better CCDs so we can now say that no matter which camera you select with the standard detector there will be no column defects.  In the tables below we provide the information from Kodak's data sheets regarding the various classes of detectors.  The definitions for defects varies slightly from one detector to another so we have included each definition under the table for a given CCD.  The Class of detector provided as standard for a given model of camera is shown in bold typeface in the table.  Higher classes of detectors are available as options for any camera unless otherwise indicated.

These detector classifications are offered as an indication only.  Please refer to Kodak for the latest detector cosmetic classification.     


ST-7E

ST-7E (KAF-0401E) Point Defects Cluster Defects Column Defects
Class 1 up to 5 0 0
Class 2 up to 10 up to 4 0

Definitions for KAF-0401E (Non-ABG)

Definitions for KAF-0401LE (ABG)


ST-8E

ST-8E (KAF-1602E or KAF-1062LE) Point Defects
Central

600x800
Point Defects
Total
Cluster Defects
Central

600x800
Cluster Defects
Total
Column Defects
Central

600x800
Column Defects
Total
Class 1 up to 2 up to 5 0 0 0 0
Class 2 up to 5 up to 10 up to 2 up to 4 0 0
Class 3 up to 10 up to 20 up to 4 up to 8 up to 2 up to 4

   Definitions for KAF-1602E (Non-ABG)

    Definitions for KAF-1602LE (ABG)


ST-9E

ST-9E (KAF-0261E) Point Defects Cluster Defects Column Defects
Class 1 up to10 up to 4 0
UV Enhanced up to10 up to 4 0

Definitions for KAF-0261E (non-ABG only)


ST-10E

ST-10E (KAF-3200E)
Point Defects
Central 1544x1040
Point Defects
Total
Cluster Defects
Central
1544x1040
Cluster Defects
Total
Column Defects
Central
1544x1040
Column Defects
Total
Class 1 up to 2 up to 5 0 0 0 0
Class 2 up to 5 up to 10 up to 2 up to 4 0 0
Class 3 up to 10 up to 20 up to 4 up to 8 0 up to 2

Definitions for KAF-3200E (Non-ABG only)

 


ST-1001E

ST-1001E (KAF-1001E) Point Defects Cluster Defects Column Defects
Class 1 up to 20 2 0
Class 2 up to 40 up to 10 0
Class 3 up to 80 up to 20 up to 10

Definitions for KAF-1001E (Non-ABG only)

Back to Top


E.  ST-7/8

5.  How do I control my ST-7/8 with Unix/Linux?

The following announcement is posted on behalf of Steve Ashe who has developed Linux support for SBIG cameras.  Please direct any inquiries regarding this software to Steve Ashe at ashe@boulder.qms.com and not to SBIG.   Thanks.

Announcement
Linux Support for SBIG Cameras
April 21, 1999

A beta release of the 2.0 version of Linux support for SBIG CCD cameras is now available using anonymous ftp at:

ftp.dimensional.com/users/ashe/

** Unlike the previous Linux support (through 1.2), using your SBIG camera
** under Linux no longer requires a driver.  Instead, there is now a normal
** archive (library) you can link with your programs.

Features (and non-features) of this beta release:

1)  (As always) its free.

2)  Support for ST-7, ST-8, ST-5C, ST-237, AO-7 and CFW-8.   The ST-5C and ST-237 (PixCel 237) code is untested at this time; if you are a Linux user and have one of these cameras, please contact me!

3)  New higher-level interface for image readout.

4)  Includes two sample programs, one that reads requests interactively from the command line and exercises camera function (including writing images in FITS format) and one that takes pictures with dark subtraction, normalization and gamma correction and displays them in a window.  C source code for both of these is  provided, as are statically linked executables.

5)  No kernel driver needed!  No devices to install!   Instead, the library uses nifty Linux features to move your application on and off the real-time process queue, lock down virtual memory, etc.

6)  Should work with all recent kernels and distributions.   Tested with RedHat 5.2 using kernel 2.2.3

7)  This code is developed under license from SBIG.

Happy CCDing, Linux'ers.

-Steve Ashe

ashe@boulder.qms.com

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Steven Ashe, Ph.D. Director, Boulder Technology Center|
|QMS, Inc. 303 443-7227|
|www.qms.com (a NYSE listed company) ashe@boulder.qms.com
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+

Back to Top


F.  AO-7

1.  Why won't my AO-7 communicate when using the new Windows 95 software?

If the AO-7 is not communicating when using the Windows 95 software (the red led doesn't light up and the mirror doesn't move when issuing an exercise command) try moving the file SBIG32.VXD from your CCDOPS Windows directory to the  C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM directory.  Reboot the system and, as a check, the Camera Info command should report version 2.66W32. 

Back to Top


F. AO-7
2.  How do I connect the AO-7 to my ST-7/8?

Please have a look at the Application Notes section of our web site for Adobe PDF drawings showing the AO-7 attachment to the ST-7/8.

Back to Top


G. CFW-8
1.  How do I connect my CFW-8 to my ST-7/8?

Please have a look at the Application Notes section of our web site for Adobe PDF drawings showing the CFW-8 attachment to the ST-7/8.

Back to Top


Revised: November 18, 2003 03:49:29 PM.
Copyright © 1998 Santa Barbara Instrument Group, Inc.  All rights reserved.

Please report any problems with this page directly to the Webmaster